Mazen Hassan
Hard News Story #2
With New York Fashion Week coming to a close this week, all eyes will be focused on the longstanding issue of the promise of an increased presence of models of different colors and ethnicities on the runway.
Top fashion blog, jezebel.com, have been tracking and researching statistics of model’s ethnicities since 2007; which at the time stated that out of 101 shows, one-third used zero models of color. Last season’s statistics of NYFW2010 showed a great increase, but still a considerable amount of lack of diversity. Out of almost 4,700 “looks”, (articles of clothing displayed on the runway – each look is represented by one model, so therefore there are over 4,000 opportunities to use a model of color) 7.3% of models were Asian, 2.4% were Latino, 8.6% were African-American, 2.6% were considered mutli-racial, while an overwhelming difference was found in Caucasian models, as they were featured in 78.4% of all shows.
This years NYFW2011, showed a significant decrease yet again with 128 shows and 4,170 looks – 2.3% were Latina, 7.1% were Asian, 18.2% were “not-identifiable” i.e. of mixed race, 8.4% were African-American, and yet again Caucasian models dominated the runway with 82.5%. So though there may have been a slight improvement in diversity, the numbers are still were they were from over a year ago – even with an African-American president in office; which many fashionites use as an excuse to say that diversity is prevalent in the media.
“When it comes down to it, the designer is in charge of who it is they want to have modeling their clothes. When we are giving casting breakdowns that specify only Caucasian. Asian, or ‘light-skinned’ models – or flat out state ‘NO ETHNIC MODELS’, that is the only type of model that we will sign to our agency or send out on castings. It is ultimately the designer’s vision, and it is what we must abide by in order to maintain good standing with designers so they continue to use us for business, and to do our job correctly,” said model booker and agent Nathan M., from a top modeling agency in NYC. “Being a person of color myself, it of course bothers me and I do think it is completely unjustified…but that is just the way this business goes unfortunately.”
Bridget O’Hara, a manager of a top PR/Showroom agency in NYC that aids designers with a lot of casting direction and overall production of shows, stated that when asking one designer if he wanted any models of ethnicity cast in his show, claimed he said “if you can find a black girl that looks like a ‘white girl dipped in chocolate’, then yeah I guess.”
“I have been in this industry for five years, and am usually on constant request when working overseas in Europe, Asia, and even the West Coast…but when it comes to New York Fashion Week, I am barely sent to any castings for designers, let alone do I get booked for a show,” says Az Marie, a multi-racial model (though she looks and is perceived by most casting agents as Black, she says), represented by Identities Agency in NYC. “While all the other white girls on my board are sent out on bookings left and right, I am made to stay behind. They get more work and exposure, and overall make more money than I do – but we all have the same height, measurements, and relatively the same walk – so why am I being held back? It is beyond unfair, and is really disheartening…. as much as I love fashion and modeling, maybe this business just isn’t for me anymore.”
“I have 32 models in my show, and 24 of my models are of color, I am proud to say,” said up and coming fashion designer Telfar. “Maybe because I am black myself, I do fully understand how difficult it can be for a young colored model to get their face out their and make a career for themselves, and I want to help. It’s 2011, Obama’s in office, Michelle is a huge fashion icon in her own right – people just need to get over it already.”
Diversity in any aspect always seem to be an issue; but when it comes to fashion and advertising, it is beyond imperative to showcase as many different races, cultures, and ethnicities as possible. Many people view fashion as something frivolous, but people do not understand just how serious it can be in terms of influencing and setting healthy images for young people out there to aspire to.
An image depicted in the media delves a lot deeper into issues of racial intolerance, and generally sending a message to the public consumers that “white is right,” and is essentially deemed the only thing to be considered beautiful.
Yet most marketers and advertisers may forget that people of color buy and wear clothes too; so to not see their racial group identified in a specific brand’s ads, could potentially have a label lose a ton of income, and the loss of many loyal fans.
"Fashion has always been a business full of fantasy – but it is time to try and start rooting it in reality, and change people’s perception of beauty," Telfar said. Only time will tell in the upcoming seasons whether that will ring true or not.
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